Coastline – Tracy Goes Outside

Distance: 5 miles. Time: 2-3 hrs. Level: Easy, with some elevation. Terrain: A mixture of road, grass track, and well-maintained paths. Access: As you travel along the B9031 from Macduff, you’ll see a signpost for St John’s Church (AB45 3ES) on the left. Shortly after, you’ll find an old quarry on the right, which is the best place to park. The What3words location for the quarry is: ///townhouse.inhabited.note

Please note, there is no direct public transport to the start of this walk. However, you could take the No. 273 bus to Gardenstown and walk to the church from there, although the path may be overgrown in places.

This is a beautiful circular coastal walk with stunning views and a fascinating slice of local history. At its heart lies the atmospheric ruin of St John’s Church, better known as the Kirk of Skulls, perched dramatically above Gamrie Bay.

Start at the old quarry parking area and carefully cross the road to join the small road signposted for St John’s Church. Follow this road as it winds along past the church’s own small carpark. Although you can park here, the rough condition of the access road makes the quarry a better option.

Continue along the track beyond the carpark until you reach the ruined church and graveyard This is St John’s Church, a historic 11th-century site dedicated to St John the Evangelist. Most of the ruins visible today date from the early 1500s, with later additions in the 17th century.

The nickname “Kirk of Skulls” comes from a dramatic local legend linked to a battle in 1004 AD, the Battle of the Bloody Pits. According to tradition, a Viking fleet sought shelter along the Banff coast during a fierce storm. Short on supplies, around 600 Vikings landed near present-day Gardenstown, hoping to raid the area. Unbeknown to them, the Thane of Buchan had anticipated an attack and assembled a strong local force.

A brutal battle followed, ending in the Vikings’ defeat. The heads of three Viking leaders were said to have been displayed within the church until the 19th century, a gruesome detail that inspired the church’s eerie nickname.

After exploring the ruins, continue a short way beyond to a bench with a panoramic view of Gardenstown, locally known as Gamrie. Retrace your steps slightly to the map board, then head up the well-maintained footpath. There is a steady climb here as you make your way inland.

At a junction, take the left-hand path. After passing a farm, continue on the right-hand path, which leads past a row of wind turbines.

Once you reach the coastline, pause to soak in the spectacular views across the Moray Firth. Turn right here to follow the coast back toward Gardenstown, with views of Crovie appearing along this stretch.

Eventually, the path swings back inland. Before you reach the previous junction, take the left turn which leads you back down toward the church. From there, simply follow the road back to the quarry, where your walk ends.

This circular route offers a rich mix of history, coastal beauty, and peaceful rural scenery. It’s an ideal walk for a sunny morning or afternoon, just be sure to bring sturdy footwear and a camera for those views.

Moray Walks, Places to Walk

Speybay – River Spey Viaduct Circuit

8th Mar 202316th Dec 2025 tracygoesoutside

Distance: 2 miles Time: 1 hr Level: Easy Terrain: Good path, pavement and road Access: Arrive by car there is plenty of parking at the Speybay dolphin centre IV32 7PJ (donations for parking)

This is a fab short circuit walk from Speybay via the Spey viaduct. The walk is all on the flat with a good path so family and buggy friendly!

Route: From the car park head for the information board and you will see the path to the left that runs along the side of the river. Head along the path over the wooded footbridge and keep going!

You will follow this path all the way along till you come a 4 way junction. Take the road to the right just before the sign to take you along to the banks of the river and to get a great view of the viaduct.

To return back to Speybay. Go back to the junction and take the track that takes you to the main road. When you get to the main road cross the road on the the pavement and take a left back towards Speybay.

Once you are back to Speybay take a left at the Bay golf club and head back to the carpark.

Moray Walks, New Walk, Places to Walk

The Bin of Cullen

17th Feb 20233rd Dec 2025 tracygoesoutside

When you think of going to Cullen for a walk you usually think of the stunning beach of The Three Kings. But just a couple miles out of Cullen is the lovely wee hill called the Bin of Cullen a little bit different from a beach walk but still very enjoyable!

There is a maze of paths and tracks all over the Bin, this route takes you to the summit of the Bin of Cullen with fantastic views of Cullen, Buckie and right along the coastline to Spey Bay. On a very clear day the hills of the Black Isle can be seen clearly in the distance. It is a very family friendly hill that is lovely all year round.

Distance: 3.5 miles Time: 1.5-2 hours Level: Easy with some elevation Terrain: Well-trodden forestry track. The path is suitable for an off-road buggy. Access: Arrive by car. To reach the start of the walk from Cullen follow the B9018 towards Deskford for around 2 miles then turn right up the road marked Hill of Maud. Just over a mile along the road on the right-hand side you will see a gated entrance marked Seafield Estate. What3words : ///madder.focal.clipboard

There is parking for several cars just at the entrance of the walk, please be mindful when parking not to block the gate.

Woodland track with trees at each side — Track at the start of the walk

Route: Once parked go round the gate and follow the main forestry track, it does go downhill initially.Ignore the track to the right. After a short distance you will come to a small bridge over the Glen Burn. Once over the bridge there is a junction, take the track to the left which leads you through the Scots pine plantation.

The track will gradually ascend. Keep a look out for the rope swing to your right, a great place to stop for kids but I am sure some adults will not be able resist a go too.

Bridge over burn with lots of greenery — Small bridge over burn

After the rope swing further up the track there is another junction. Take a left here. Keep on this track ignoring the one to the right a little bit further on. As you reach the summit there are several narrow rough tracks, avoid them as theyare used by mountain bikers descending the summit.

Keep your eyes peeled for breaks in the trees where you get great views of the surrounding countryside. Once out of the trees the track continues zigzagging till you reach the summit with a carpet of heather at each side. When the top is reached and you find the cairn and trig point it is time to enjoy the fabulous coastal views. There is enough room at the summit if you want to have a picnic or to just sit, enjoy the views and take some photos.

View of coast line with trees at each side — View of the coast

The return route is simply retracing your steps.You will get another chance to enjoy the walk in the woods. Keep a look out for pine marten, red squirrel and crossbills. I wasn’t lucky enough to see any furry friends,. There is also an abundance of wild flowers and fungi which I did manage to photograph. As the seasons change there is always something new to spot.

View of Cullen and the Moray firth — Cullen from the summit!

Moray Walks, Places to Walk

Walk to the Kingston beach hut

27th Jan 20233rd Dec 2025 tracygoesoutside

Kingston drift wood hut was built by the locals and is an amazing place to visit. There is something added to it every time I visit!

Distance: 1 1/2 miles Time: 1hr Level: Easy Terrain: Grass track and pebble beach Access: Arrive by car, parking is available at corner Kingston road and Beach road. There is a no 34 Stagecoach bus from Elgin.

Route: This is a fantastic short walk leaving from the car park take the track to the left that runs past the back of the houses. Follow the track right along and it will narrow down to a path.

Keep a look out for the ducks paddling in the water to your right.

When you get to the play park turn left and head back towards the beach hut. It is pebbles all the way so not the easiest to walk on so wear good footwear.

When you get to the beach hut make sure you explore it inside and outside and see if you find the visitor book. Please be respectful while you are there the locals after spent a lot of time and effort to build the hut,

Large beach hut made with drift wood — Kingston beach hut

View of shingle beach out the beach hut window

After exploring the area return the same way as you came.

Places to Walk

Crannoch Circuit, Cullen

20th Jan 20239th Dec 2025 tracygoesoutside

I headed to Cullen for this walk but rather than going to the beach I headed up to the woods for a stroll round Crannoch wood and loch. With some beautiful views of the sea and the Bin Hill. This is quite a short walk and perfect in any season. Wear suitable footwear as maybe a little muddy.

Distance: 2.75 miles Time: 1hr Level: Easy with some elevation. Terrain: Grass track, woodland trail and pavement Access: Arrive by car parking is available in the square. There is a regular number 35 bus running from Elgin to Aberdeen.

Route: The walk starts off in the square in Cullen head up Seafield Road past the Antiques Centre and then take a left along Seafield Place. When you reach the corner before heading along Logie Drive take a right up the grass track. There is a waymarker here. At the junction at the top take a right going away from Cullen.

A little ahead you will come to a gate go through the gate and turn left and go towards the ruined Logie House that you can see in the distance.

Just before you come to the ruin take a right at the waymarker, then take another right as you head towards the woods. When you reach the woods take a left when you see the path into the woods, then follow the track it will turn to the right Go past the small Loch I did explore a little here. Get back on the track and keep going straight ahead.

You will pass the Den!

At the next junction take a right to return to Cullen. You will go over the bridge of the old railway line then skirt past a small carpark before reaching the outskirts of Cullen.

Careful walk along the track next to the road till you return back into Cullen and back to the square.

Aberdeenshire Walks, Places to Walk

Portsoy and Sandend circular

19th Jul 20223rd Dec 2025 tracygoesoutside

This beautiful walk takes in the old harbour that dates back to 1693 that has been recently used for a film set for Peaky Blinders and Whisky Galore. You will explore the coastal path that runs along past the cliffs between Portsoy and Sandend with many paths that branch to do yuor own exploring before arriving at the stunning Sandend beach and returning along a quiet country lane with coastal views.

Distance: 5 miles Time: 2hrs Level: Easy with some elevation Terrain: Tarred road, pavements, coastal trail paths and beach Access: Arrive by car, there is plenty of parking avalible in the The Square, Portsoy, AB45 2NX The No35 service bus runs between Elgin and Aberdeen and drops off on Seafield Street only a short walk along South High Street to the start of the walk.

Route: At the square head down North High Street past the Boyne Hotel till you come to the Old Harbour. This is a great chance to have a look around with some fabulous photo opportunities. Head over to the left of the harbour where you will find the stunning bottlenose dolphin statue that was made by local artist Carn Standing.

Next to the statue you will find the ruined remains of a cottage that has a lovely view out the window.

To the left of the ruin there is a narrow path where you can skirt round the wee hill or go up the top to get a great view of Portsoy.

Carry down the narrow path which will take you to a small yard, follow the path towards the houses where you will find a waymarker post for the coastal trail.

The path will skirt past the houses till you finally leave Portsoy and into the countryside.

Not long after you leave the town, Portsoy Lido the disused outdoor pool will come into view. The lido was opened in 1936 and was in use until it closed in 2001.

Just after the Lido there is a short stretch on a narrow country lane so be careful there maybe cars here.

The very well-marked path carries on along the coastline with plenty of paths off to the side if you are keen to look for seabirds along the cliffs. You will reach Redhythe Point where there are remains of a building which would have been part of a WW2 rifle range that was once there.

After Redhythe Point the coastal path winds along the edge of the cliffs you can choose to stick to the main path or explore the narrower paths closer to the shoreline. You will come to a grassy track with heather at each side on the left in the not too far distance you will see a vehicle barrier (that is your return route).

Turn right to pass the bay with the ruined house.

Once past the small bay you will come to a gate. go through it and down the steep path and on to the steps to Sandend beach.

At the end of the beach you will find a WW2 pillbox along with other remains from the war which can be found in several areas around Aberdeenshire and Moray.

You could stop for a picnic here and walk along the beautiful sandy beach or even explore Sandend more before returning back up the steps and the steep path and through the gate. Once past the small bay head to the right towards the vehicle barrier. Once past the barrier head straight on past the big house on your right.

Continue straight along the country lane. You will have some great views of the coast and Portsoy as you are walking back. Once you arrive in Portsoy you will go along the street named Park Crescent which then goes on Cullen Street before heading straight back to the square where you began. There are some lovely wee shops and cafes in Portsoy if you have plenty of time they are worth a look.

Tag: Coastline

Kirk of Skulls & Coastal Circular, Gardenstown