Aberdeenshire Walks, Places to Walk

Kirk of Skulls & Coastal Circular, Gardenstown

Distance: 5 miles. Time: 2-3 hrs. Level: Easy, with some elevation. Terrain: A mixture of road, grass track, and well-maintained paths. Access: As you travel along the B9031 from Macduff, you’ll see a signpost for St John’s Church (AB45 3ES) on the left. Shortly after, you’ll find an old quarry on the right, which is the best place to park. The What3words location for the quarry is: ///townhouse.inhabited.note

Please note, there is no direct public transport to the start of this walk. However, you could take the No. 273 bus to Gardenstown and walk to the church from there, although the path may be overgrown in places.

This is a beautiful circular coastal walk with stunning views and a fascinating slice of local history. At its heart lies the atmospheric ruin of St John’s Church, better known as the Kirk of Skulls, perched dramatically above Gamrie Bay.

Start at the old quarry parking area and carefully cross the road to join the small road signposted for St John’s Church. Follow this road as it winds along past the church’s own small carpark. Although you can park here, the rough condition of the access road makes the quarry a better option.

Continue along the track beyond the carpark until you reach the ruined church and graveyard This is St John’s Church, a historic 11th-century site dedicated to St John the Evangelist. Most of the ruins visible today date from the early 1500s, with later additions in the 17th century.

The nickname “Kirk of Skulls” comes from a dramatic local legend linked to a battle in 1004 AD, the Battle of the Bloody Pits. According to tradition, a Viking fleet sought shelter along the Banff coast during a fierce storm. Short on supplies, around 600 Vikings landed near present-day Gardenstown, hoping to raid the area. Unbeknown to them, the Thane of Buchan had anticipated an attack and assembled a strong local force.

A brutal battle followed, ending in the Vikings’ defeat. The heads of three Viking leaders were said to have been displayed within the church until the 19th century, a gruesome detail that inspired the church’s eerie nickname.

After exploring the ruins, continue a short way beyond to a bench with a panoramic view of Gardenstown, locally known as Gamrie. Retrace your steps slightly to the map board, then head up the well-maintained footpath. There is a steady climb here as you make your way inland.

At a junction, take the left-hand path. After passing a farm, continue on the right-hand path, which leads past a row of wind turbines.

Once you reach the coastline, pause to soak in the spectacular views across the Moray Firth. Turn right here to follow the coast back toward Gardenstown, with views of Crovie appearing along this stretch.

Eventually, the path swings back inland. Before you reach the previous junction, take the left turn which leads you back down toward the church. From there, simply follow the road back to the quarry, where your walk ends.

This circular route offers a rich mix of history, coastal beauty, and peaceful rural scenery. It’s an ideal walk for a sunny morning or afternoon, just be sure to bring sturdy footwear and a camera for those views.

Aberdeenshire Walks, Places to Walk

Banff and Whitehills Circular

Distance: 5 ½ – 6 miles Time: 2 – 3 hrs Level: Easy with some elevation Terrain: Mix of pavement, track, road, and beach Access: Car parking is available at the Quayside car park (AB45 1HQ). Regular buses run between Elgin and Aberdeen, with the nearest bus stop located at Chalmers Hospital, just a short distance from the start of the walk.

This is a wonderful coastal walk from the Aberdeenshire town of Banff to the neighbouring village of Whitehills. Before setting off, check the tidal times so you can enjoy walking along the beach.

From the Quayside car park, head towards the beach, taking the coastal path along Scotstown. Watch for cormorants drying their feathers on the rocks, and you may even be lucky enough to spot dolphins passing by.

Soon, you’ll come to steps leading down to the beach if you’ve timed the tide right. Banff Links is a fantastic beach to walk along, and on a sunny day, it’s lovely to take a wee paddle as you stroll. When you reach the end of the caravan park, take the ramp on your left to return to the path.

Follow the path and go over the footbridge until you reach a fork. Take a right here, and shortly you’ll arrive at Blackpots Playpark and Harbour.

The small, disused harbour was built in the late 18th century. The playpark was a favourite spot for my kids when they were younger, and I have fond memories of enjoying fish and chips with my mum while the kids played. fter the playpark, you’ll come upon the Fisherman’s & Seafarers’ Memorial and Whitehills Marina.

Continue along the road, passing Downies Fish, and keep an eye out for the “Light the North” lighthouse.

Stay on Seafield Street until you reach the post box and telephone box then take a left along Loch Street. Continue on Loch Street until you leave Whitehills. Soon, you’ll come to the coastal path on the left, take this path back towards Banff.

Along the coastal path, you’ll find the Red Well. The name comes from a spring that emerges from the ground, leaving red deposits, possibly due to iron content. The nearby beehive-shaped structure is thought to have been built by the Romans.

After the Red Well, continue on the path until you reach a fork just before the footbridge. Take the fork to the right and follow the track to a junction. Take a left here, follow the road over the bridge, and continue until the road splits.

Take the road on your right, which will lead to the Banff Links car park. Turn right and walk through the car park. At the other end, you’ll find a path with a gate. Go past the gate and continue along the path. After the third blue pavilion, you’ll come to another fork; take the track to the left, passing a small stone building (possibly an old icehouse).

Stay on this path as it winds through Scotstown. You’ll pass behind a row of houses; at the end of these, you’ll see some sheds. Take a left here to return to the Quayside car park.

Next to the car park, you’ll find the recently upgraded Banff Harbour, which is worth a visit before finishing your walk. You’ll enjoy lovely views of Macduff from the harbour.

Highlands Walks, Places to Walk

Caledonian Canal, Muirtown Point and River Ness Circuit

Distance: 7.5 miles Time: 3hrs Level: Easy longer walk Terrain: Pavements and walking paths Access: City parking is available at Rose Street IV1 1NQ. There are regular stagecoach buses and trains into the city centre from several areas. If you would prefer to find free parking you can adjust the walk a little and start your walk after the Ness Islands as there is plenty of parking around the skate park area IV3 55P.

This is a fantastic route that starts in the city and takes you along some of the beautiful waterways of Inverness. Along the way you will find some beautiful views and plenty of wildlife.

Start your walk at the bottom of Bridge Street carefully cross the road and turn left to follow along the river side. You will start to see the blue waymarker for the Great Glen Way. You will pass by several hotels and will soon come to the magnificent Faith, Hope and Charity statue that was originally on top of a building on the high street before being sold. It was returned to Inverness in 2011.

Carry along the river side path passing the footbridge and the war memorial. You will arrive at the Ness Islands. These are a collection of natural islands on the river that are accessed by bridges. Weave your way round the paths exploring the area before getting to the access suspension bridge at the end.

Take a left at the bridge and walk along the path till you come to the Whin Park gate. Turn right here passing the edge of the rugby pitch. Keep going you will soon see the underpass where you can get across the road safely, once through take the next underpass to your right. You have arrived at the canal. Cross over the bridge and take the path that runs alongside the caravan park.

You will follow this path all the way to the Muirtown Basin. There is a small section that passes the back of the marina where you will need to be careful as there may be vehicles on the move. Once you pass the canal locks the path will turn to the left and keep going till you come to the gates at the train track. Carefully go through the gates.

Here you can walk right up to Clachnaharry sea lock where you will get a cracking view of the Beauly Firth and Ben Wyvis. This is where the canal ends. Cross over the lock walkway and turn right heading back down the canal, then cross back over the railway line. Shortly after you will take a turn to the left to head for the pier.

Keep your eyes peeled for wildlife. There were plenty of wading birds when I passed and there are nice viewing areas if you want to hang around and observe them. Once you arrive at the car park and pier, turn right here and follow the road until you come to the gates of Carmarc Point. Head through the gates and up to the point, this is a great place to get some photos of the bridge. The Kessock bridge was opened in 1982 and is sometimes known as the gateway to the highlands. There is plenty of seating here, so a great area to stop for a snack before heading back into the city.

Come back out Carmarc point the way you came in and take a left, walking alongside the harbour you will come to a fork but keep left and you will pass under the railway line and then under the main road until you come to the suspension bridge.

Here you will get a great view of the city and of course Inverness castle. Head over the bridge and you will return to where you started.

Moray Walks, Places to Walk

Burghead and Clarkly Hill Circuit

Distance: 4 ¾ miles Time: 2hrs Level: Easy with some elevation Terrain: Mix of pavements, coastal trail, woodland trail, and country road. Access: Arrive by car, parking available at the opening of the caravan park. Follow the signs for the caravan park and use the car park on the left-hand side using postcode IV30 5RP. There is a No32 Stagecoach bus from Elgin that drops off not far from the start.

This beautiful walk on the Moray coastal trail takes you along past the harbour and on to the old railway line path with a stunning coastal view and a chance you may see dolphins passing by. There are an abundance of historical sites along the way with great information boards!

Route: Leaving the car park follow the path that takes you along to the harbour. The harbour itself was built by Thomas Telford in the early 1800’s with impressive three storey warehouses. Three of the warehouses still remain and have now been converted into flats.

Once you pass by the warehouses take the stairs up to some great views of Burghead bay. Turn right along to the visitors’ centre in the old white round building, here you can find out about Pictish Burghead dating back to 400AD.

Once you have explored the centre, head towards the old anchor and you will see the Clavie mound. This is where on the 11th of January every year Burghead celebrate their New Year with a unique fire festival called the burning of the Clavie. The significance of the 11th January dates back to the 1750’s

From the Clavie mound, head towards the waterside and turn right along the tarred road, where you will find the Harvest Reaper boat that was originally built in Fraserburgh in 1931 and was finally berthed here in 2015. There are always plenty of seabirds to look out for as you walk along the water’s edge.

Further on you will pass by the Maltings and on to the coastal path. You will come to St Aethan’s Well and onto the disused quarry.

There are several way markers for the Clarkly Hill short walk, ignore these. You will pass under an old railway bridge before coming to the Cummingston Crag. The sandstone crag is a popular sea cliff for mountain climbers, and you may see some climbing the Prophet Walls (as it is known) as you are walking past!

Once under the second old railway bridge you find an opening on the left-hand side; this path will double back before going over the top of the bridge. Head straight on here until you arrive in Cummingston.

At the junction you will see the sign post a little to the left for Clarkly Hill. Cross over the main road and up the country road ahead. Looking over to the left and you will get some great views of Hopeman in the distance.

You will soon come to your next way marker taking you onto a track on your right. This will take you past a pig farm before coming to your hext sign post. Here you will go through the gate and straight ahead into a wooded area.

The viewpoint is unfortunately overgrown now, turn right at the fence and follow the path through the wood till you come to the gate at the other side.

From the wood you will carry on down the road back towards Burghead taking in the views ahead. Once past the masts go through the gate and back to the main road. Cross over and turn left here until you come to the junction to turn right, back in to Burghead.

Follow the main road back until you come to the community gardens. From here turning left to arrive back at the carpark.

Aberdeenshire Walks, Places to Walk

Exploring Portsoy

This is a great walk exploring round the sights of Portsoy! Nothing too taxing just a stroll round seeing some of the sights!

Distance: 2 1/4 miles Time: 1hr Terrain: Mix of grass path, pavement and tarred road Access: Arrive by car and head for the The Sail Loft, AB45 2RQ there is parking spaces between the Sail loft and the beach area. There are regular no 35 Stagecoach buses that drop off in the Main Street.

Route: Leaving the car park head towards the bridge and take the road on the left towards the graveyard. At the graveyard you will see a path that skirts round the edge of the graveyard to the side of the burn. Walk along the grass path till you reach the bridge. Head to the right here and keep going.

At the next fork take the path to the right and you will come to a great view of the Sail loft, beach and the opening of St Combs well. Keep going till you get to the silver gate where you can go and check out the well!

St Combs well is said to be first built in the 7th Century. The well 2ft diameter, and still flowing, is now covered by a stone cupola with an arched entrance. It was restored in 1893.

St Combs well

Back on the path head down the steps and back towards the caravan park. Follow the road along past the front of the caravan park. Keep going past the Salmon bothy till you reach the new harbour. Take a left at the harbour along to the old harbour and the dolphin sculpture.

Old Harbour

Once you have explored the harbour area walk up North High Street till you get to the square and then along South High Street till you get to Main Street. From here cross over and head for the sign post for Loch of Soy.

Once through the carpark take the path round the Loch keeping your eyes pealed for paddling ducks and swans. Don’t forget to check out the wooden building beside the Loch that used to be the old railway station building now used as the Scout Hut.

Loch of Soy

Once round the Loch go back out the carpark and take a wander along the Main Street checking out some of the lovely shops or have some Portsoy Ice-cream. You will come to the signs for the Caravan park follow the signs and return to the start.

Moray Walks, Places to Walk

Speybay – River Spey Viaduct Circuit

Distance: 2 miles Time: 1 hr Level: Easy Terrain: Good path, pavement and road Access: Arrive by car there is plenty of parking at the Speybay dolphin centre IV32 7PJ (donations for parking)

This is a fab short circuit walk from Speybay via the Spey viaduct. The walk is all on the flat with a good path so family and buggy friendly!

Route: From the car park head for the information board and you will see the path to the left that runs along the side of the river. Head along the path over the wooded footbridge and keep going!

You will follow this path all the way along till you come a 4 way junction. Take the road to the right just before the sign to take you along to the banks of the river and to get a great view of the viaduct.

To return back to Speybay. Go back to the junction and take the track that takes you to the main road. When you get to the main road cross the road on the the pavement and take a left back towards Speybay.

Once you are back to Speybay take a left at the Bay golf club and head back to the carpark.

Aberdeenshire Walks, Places to Walk

Walk to Findlater Castle

Findlater is a ruined castle in Aberdeenshire and only a couple miles from Cullen. It is the old seat of the Earls of Findlater and Seafield, sitting on a 50 foot-high cliff overlooking the Moray Firth.

Distance: 1 mile Time: 1hr Level: Easy but may be more difficult if the path is muddy some elevation. Terrain: Grass track and narrow possibly muddy path. Access: Arrive by car heading east from Cullen on the A98 turn left up road sign posted to Findlater Castle. The road takes a sharp corner to the right then take the next left after the first house. Take a left at the house and there is parking round the back of the large barns. Postcode is AB45 2UD. Please keep dogs on leads at all time.

Route: Once parked take the track to the right past the back of the barns. The track will turn left, keep going till you come to the junction.

Round Doocot or Dovecot next to a ploughed field
Findlater Doocot

You can take a left at the junction to head along to the Findlater Doocot or head straight on to the Castle.

View of ruined castle in the cliffs with beach to left hand side
Findlater Castle from view point

There is a fab viewing area which if you don’t want to go any further you can get a great view and some cracking photos.

Castle ruins with sea to left hand side

Carefully take the path down to watching where you walk and explore the area.

Door way of ruined castle with coastal view

Why don’t you finish off with a visit to the stoney beach to the side for the full Findlater experience.

View of castle from the beach
Findlater from the beach
Moray Walks, Places to Walk

Walk to the Kingston beach hut

Kingston drift wood hut was built by the locals and is an amazing place to visit. There is something added to it every time I visit!

Distance: 1 1/2 miles Time: 1hr Level: Easy Terrain: Grass track and pebble beach Access: Arrive by car, parking is available at corner Kingston road and Beach road. There is a no 34 Stagecoach bus from Elgin.

Route: This is a fantastic short walk leaving from the car park take the track to the left that runs past the back of the houses. Follow the track right along and it will narrow down to a path.

Estuary area at Kingston
Kingston

Keep a look out for the ducks paddling in the water to your right.

When you get to the play park turn left and head back towards the beach hut. It is pebbles all the way so not the easiest to walk on so wear good footwear.

Shingle beach with blue skies

When you get to the beach hut make sure you explore it inside and outside and see if you find the visitor book. Please be respectful while you are there the locals after spent a lot of time and effort to build the hut,

Large beach hut made with drift wood
Kingston beach hut
View of shingle beach out the beach hut window

After exploring the area return the same way as you came.